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Is the foam uv resistant? Looks porous

This is a great idea but I just discovered the cost for the materials here in Canada is insane. The 2 pieces of square iron tube total $115 after tax. Ouch. I think I’m going to go with your first idea of using just one piece of angle iron.

Good information. My goal is to tow my kayak with my bike long distance and then mount my bike to the back of my kayak.

I bought one 4 or 5 years ago. I live on a lake and use it heavy. I love it, no issues. I believe you. I didn't know cadence sold to another company. Once businesses do that you never know what quality you will get. Thank you!

why won't it stand up to heavy brush?

You need to watch Danny Maeskops cast 930 feet.

Nice review of the system. I like the hardened case. I didn't remember that feom the previous review. We hit light chop all the time in bays - would definitely be handy.

I have a pacmotor. I would like more detail please on how you wired the DC converter to get 19V.

I bought an ADDMOTOR M360 and it does awesome at the beach. I live in St. Aug, FL and use it for surf fishing. I just don't have a RUclips Channel like most people here do.

Brilliant sir. thank you!

My well nuts are still coming out I even use marine sealer on them I am using them on a railblazer kayak trolly mount what else can I do

I hope you have a better camera by now.

What’s your opinion on the Magicycle Deer vs Discover 2? Sorry for your buyers remorse.

What type of bead and what’s it for?

Great idea. How are u able to reach that pole ? No way in heck i could turn my self around and reach back to remove it from the rod holder.

Thank you! This vid showed me how to properly attach the strap

Excellent hack.

Nuts I can’t kneel for long. I’ve had both knees replaced and even with knee pads it ain’t fun

Perfect explanation my friend! It was exactly what I needed! Thanks

You will get 100% clearcoat scratches from this cause this is the nature of the thing.

Great video. This solves all my problems. 👍

It's a high compliment when an accomplished fellow maker uses and shares your idea in his content. This is the good part of Y_T, where we share info and methods that we all use to make better, customized or less expensive things. I like and may very well use epoxy, PVC or an insert to extend thread surface and leverage (or the allthread adjuster). All yakkers should take a PVC/ABS 101 class. Actually you provide one here. Ha. And the name... that's funny. Somehow YT assigned that to me when I made the account. I don't know why my SwampThing 75 moniker doesn't show up much of the time. I don't comment enough to even think about it.

Thanks kayak oldtimer

Should do a side by side video ... a good one, kinda good one and one to stay away from

Rubber bands is various breaking strains work well too

Despite the title, I think you made a reasonable case. Rods break, randomly from any manufacturer, and for various reasons; but if it becomes a pattern, then certainly anyone would be within their right to question it and avoid purchasing them again. Rods are not so cheap you can throw good money after bad and waste a weekends fishing. I had a brand new, expensive Sage rod explode into four pieces pulling a stuck hook out of some grass... Nope! In all my days I've never had a a rod do that, and I've seriously abused my other river rods. So, I won't buy a Sage rod again. Of course there are thousands who use Sage rods and never have an issue - I'm sure mine was an anomaly - but I have many choices and there is no great magic to one brand over another, so I just make my (superstitious) choice and move on. The fact it did that after hours of punching tight loops into high winds might have contributed and weakened it; but that, and the fact doing so caused the 'tennis elbow' I still suffer from over a decade later, didn't help my attitude to Sage rods. (A good lesson about' performance' rods I learned that day - just because a rod is great at punching into winds you'd normally struggle with, that doesn't mean you should...) We are a superstitious lot, and have to trust our kit. It doesn't take much to question everything - lose a good fish to a broken water knot and you may never tie another water knot again! I'll not even start on socks and underpants 😁👍

what is not mentioned is that the the float and the dive reel are in the water in front of the trolley ring, correct. That is the only way it would work if you have to cut free.

Thanks for this explanation. Now I need a fish finder, for the other side! 😂

Threaded inset would be stronger, can be added to wood or more pvc glued to inside to replace epoxy. Pvc can be flattened after heating and filler pieces cut with hole saw and then glued in with standard pvc primer and glue.

Thank you for sharing this idea and video

Very cool hack.

I've done the heat-the-bolt approach for a number of PVC hacks. Not all were kayak related. The approach works really well when using multiple PVC pipes of different sizes as sleeves/bushings (the inner piece can be PVC, wood, etc). Drill a hole in the outside PVC pipe (the sleeve), use the heat approach to tap the hole, then use a bolt through the tapped hole in the outer pipe to press against the inner component to hold it in place - you can get specialized hand-use knobs at the home improvement stores if you want. It's great for making telescoping rods for mounts and also works to lock the inner component when used as a bushing (ie steering mechanism). If you need fixed points on the inner pipe (rod/shaft/etc), make indentations where you want the inner piece to be and the bolt will hold there better than a smooth surface. Need to be careful though as there is a limit on length due to PVC flexibility. You can also tap the pipe on the end (as you did), but run all-thread or a threaded bolt through it if you want something which fits on the all-thread (or threaded bolt) and you want to adjust height or orientation by means of turning the gizmo along the thread - or you need to screw the entire assembly to something. I've done both and the hacks have all (mostly) worked well. The only problem I've had was if I overtightened and stripped the PVC thread. That doesn't happen when using a nut, but it's difficult to use a nut with the sleeve (drilling through the side wall) hack. I've also had some long PVC components (camera and boat light mounts) wobble when I made them too long. For the sleeve hack, anything which fits within the outer sleeve will work, but it generally does better if the OD of the inside component is only slightly smaller than the ID of the outside pipe. Find small pieces and experiment. Some PVC and CPVC sizes are nearly perfect fits. I use them for bushings - I need to add a zerk fitting, though they move fairly well with just the initial lubrication.

Good idea from unpronounceable person 😂

What size hole do you drill before you heat the threaded bolt

I wonder if adding a threaded insert would make it stronger?

A lot of good stuff there but may I suggest one thing? The HDPE block you put under the trolley mount should go inside the kayak. Think about what load is there. You are hanging the kayak from the mount so it will tend to want to pull out not rest on top of. Thanks for your tips.

my son and i started with a 220 that came with it but since we got the 240s , i carry the little floating emergency paddle, very handy

thank you I have 2 kayaks to the ramps i go

my main interest in setting up a motor is i can go upstream from where I put in with a motor and not exhaust myself while doing it..don't need another truck or person either..total game changer...

I just remembered that my brother had an inflatable kayak. It was sufficient when it was new, but as it aged it developed micro leaks that caused it to slowly deflate. The biggest issue he had was getting all the air out of it to get it back in the car. He got so fed up with the thing that he built himself a wood kayak complete with inlay. LOL

I recently bought a kayak for myself. It'd a sit in type that's only ten feet in length. My primary consideration was portability. It had to be light enough that I'd be able to lift it. I use a two wheeled cart to get it from my vehicle to the water and back. I strap the cart to the back of the kayak rather than take it back and fetch to and from the car. A paddle kayak would be out of the question for me because my knees aren't as good as they used to be.

I own several Viper X and a few Carbon X reels of varying sizes. I've found that the Carbon X reels have some issues with the handles...the Carbon X handles get "stuck" and lose their smoothness after casting/retrieving a few dozen times. The Viper X reels, IMO, seem to hold up a lot better, over time and usage, as far as smooth retrieval. The Carbon X reels need to be lubed regularly to correct this problem. Considering the Viper X runs $20 less, I'd have to recommend them over the Carbon X reels simply because they seem to hold their smooth retrievals longer. Drag systems are great on both reels.

Bird nest in a can.

Wait, so which bike is recommended for beach riding? I really like the fat tire ones

If I only need to weld something once or twice, the $20 tool is fine vs the $100 tool.

But is not possible to feed directly by ecoflow? The trolling I mean…

Can a Bluetti feed a trolling motor directly?

😎👍